Getting Touristy in Yogyakarta

Graharu Boutique Hotel

Our boutique hotel, in Borobudur, was pretty charming in daylight. It had looked very different on the previous night and the wee hours of the morning — before our sunrise visit to Borobudur Temple. The manager was disappointed that we were rushing to Yogyakarta after spending only a couple hours in the hotel. Many tourists spend days at the boutique hotel and choose to explore the village roads on a bike, try river rafting, and hiking. It was tempting to stay back.

We left for Yogyakarta soon after breakfast. It takes about an hour and half to reach Yogyakarta from Borobudur.

The Great Mosque (Mesjid Gedhe Kauman)

The Great Mosque looked very different from the other mosques that I’ve seen before. Its architecture is quintessentially Javanese in style and it’s hard to miss the striking red rooftop and ivory white pillars. Only muslims are allowed to enter the mosque and we tried to peer in from the side. I was disappointed because I have never visited a mosque before and thought visitors would be allowed inside. This mosque is closely linked to the foundation of the Kingdom of Yogyakarta, also known as Kraton, and the arrival of Muslim leaders who founded the Kauman Village Settlement. The mosque was built around 1772, roughly about 16 years after the Kingdom of Yogyakarta was established.

Kauman Village Settlement

Eko, our guide, rambled facts about the Kauman Village Settlement. Honestly, I was sleep deprived, and the heat was slowly rising. I tried taking some notes and asked few questions that may have confused Eko. Religion is rooted in absolute belief and history depends on who’s narrating it; so when the two intersect — it’s hard to settle on the absolute truth. The early muslim leaders — who arrived shortly after the formation of the Kingdom — were granted a special place by the Sultan to practice Muslim studies. In the early 1900s, Ahmad Dahlan founded the Muhammadiyah Islamic Movement to practice a more conservative form of Islam. Until then, most people in the Kingdom, including the Sultan, practiced Islam with a mix of Hindu rituals and beliefs.

Narrow Streets

The narrow lanes of the village settlement were largely empty. There were few students practicing batik and women who were busy with their daily chores. Eko showed us the house of the founder, the mosque for women, and the school for kids. The streets are intentionally built narrow to ensure minimal vehicular traffic. By urging people to walk on these streets; it creates equality among all those who venture here. Eko continued talking about the different Islamic sects, from the conservative to the radical. It was hard to keep track of them and after a point — I lost focus.

Becaks

We walked towards the Sultan’s Palace. It was quite hot now and I hoped the palace would be cooler. Becaks (cycle rickshaws) are used for public transportation around Yogyakarta. But around the Palace Quarter they transform into joyrides for tourists looking for quirky things-to-do.

Sultan’s Palace

The lawns were teeming with tourists and school children. The palace architecture is understated and its simplicity is quite a contrast to the opulence one might normally expect to see. Large halls supported on intricately carved pillars form the different sections of the palace. Visitors aren’t allowed to enter the private quarters of the Sultan. We saw it from a distance and Eko rambled some names of important dignitaries and few royals who had been entertained there.

Shadow Puppet Show (Wayang Golek)

We were in time for a shadow puppet show. The heat was insufferable now and the humidity made it worse. We found a spot at the back and tried to follow the show. The music was quite soothing because of its clanging cymbals and percussion instruments. The sun was too bright and it was hard to see shapes on the screen. The story narrated was probably from one of the Hindu epics (Ramayana or Mahabharata). Eko said it was about a small boy trying to defeat a demon.

Different halls are used to display personal items, photographs of the royal family, their rituals, and memorabilia. The last hall, dedicated to the 9th King, was probably the most concise in terms of chronology and history. However, as a visitor, I would have liked to learn more about the Sultan’s dynasty.

The Sultan, Sri Sultan Hamengkubuwono X, is the ruler of the Kingdom of Yogyakarta and was the first democratically elected governor of the special province. In 2012, a law was passed that automatically made the Sultan the governor of the special province. The Sultan has 5 daughters and it’s quite probable that his eldest, Princess Gusti Kanjeng Ratu Mangkubumi, may succeed him one day. Should the Princess ascend the throne, it would be quite a departure from the long line of male heirs who ruled the Kingdom, and it will also usher a new era for gender equality.

I was perplexed. How does a Muslim King follow Hindu rituals? Eko said the Sultan is a descendant (that’s putting it very simply) of one of the Hindu Mataram Kings. So, I wondered aloud if that was the reason for the blend of Hindu practices with Islam. Eko was hesitant. He said it could be one of the reasons for this unlikely confluence. Or, it’s quite possible that a trade-off was made to accept Islam. I thought his choice of words was interesting. Earlier, he’d said: during the Hindu-Buddha period, locals were tricked into giving up their native beliefs to follow Hinduism or Buddhism. 

Souvenir Shop

There’s a souvenir shop next to the exit. An artisan worked meticulously on a leather cutout, perforating it with fine holes. The completed piece would transform into a Wayang Puppet. Inside, batik paintings and masks were on sale. We got a pair of (Ram & Sita) wooden masks with Batik motifs. Most items are pretty expensive here and you may get a better deal at the local market.

On a Becak

It was about noon and our attention span was quickly fading. The becak ride, although touristy, was perfect to forget the heat and enjoy the sights of this charming town.

Water Palace (Taman Sari)

Our becak stopped outside the Sultan’s Water Palace. Back in the day, the Water Palace was used for bathing by members of the royal family. It also doubled as a resting place. Only a portion of the Water Palace is preserved today. The peeling paint, moss covered pools, and dilapidated royal rooms aren’t particularly alluring in the heat. It’s hard to imagine how this palace might have looked in its heyday.

Street Art

We followed Eko as he lead us through winding alleys. Yogyakarta’s street artists are pretty expressive and even the main city centre has some eye-catching work.

Underground Tunnel

We walked through an underground tunnel that lead us directly to the parking lot.

Lunch

I couldn’t wait for lunch and thankfully, it was a short drive from the palace. A local businessman had converted a former royal building into a hotel. The buffet spread had an assortment of Indonesian delicacies. Eko joined us for lunch this time.

Batik Factory

We had already learned about the process of batik, at the local museum, on the day of our arrival in Yogyakarta. The walls of the factory had patterns of different Batik designs and colours.

An artisan creates intricate patterns with hot wax. It’s a painstaking job and requires attention to detail.

The cloth is then dyed and mixed with a chemical to seal the colour. The sheets are then dried on wooden racks. The souvenir shop has a fine collection of batik works.

Malioboro

After packing essential clothes for the train journey, we gave our suitcase to Eko and the driver. We wanted to walk around the cafes around our hotel, but there weren’t any souvenir shops nearby. So, we took a cab to Malioboro and picked some interesting trinkets for our friends.

After 6 p.m., the traffic builds up and it was hard to find transport back to our hotel. We were lucky to get an empty cab after waiting for 20 minutes.

Hotel Indies Heritage

Hotel Indies was quite a nice hotel. But, with our tight schedule, we barely had time to relax. We had to wake up early the next morning and catch the train to Jombang. Yogyakarta was one of the better cities that we had visited so far. And I wished we had more time to walk around and take in the idyllic charms of this city.

 

21 responses to “Getting Touristy in Yogyakarta

  1. lovely post. it seems you explore many places there. I should take Mickey there one day as we had to cut our trip short because of the Volcano explotion last time we where there and Mickey has not see the Borobudur temple yet.

    • I’m so glad you enjoyed reading this post. You must visit Borobudur! We loved it. We were lucky we missed the earthquake in Lombok and a volcano eruption in Bali. We flew back from Surabaya instead of continuing further. Planning Indonesia is tricky. 😦

      • Yes, I have been to Borobudur many times before but Mickey never been there. We definitely will go back there to explore Borobudur and other places. Mickey also wants to go to Mt. Bromo and Mt. Ijen. Transportation in Indonesia is tricky as buses takes ages to travel.

      • I know what you mean. We didn’t have the time so we opted for a tour from Yogyakarta to Surabaya. It helped us with the travelling part of the trip. I wish it wasn’t so rushed though. 😦

  2. Touristy or not, it looks like a fun and educational way to spend your day. I was trying to keep track of how many times you said you zoned out because of the heat! Haha 🙂 Finally, I love the narrow, quiet lanes of the town – very peaceful and so clean!

    • Yogyakarta is good to explore the neighbouring UNESCO sites and natural gems of Java. I wish we had planned the trip ourselves. My attention span was quite short on this trip. The heat and humidity (with the lack of sleep) was unbearable! 🙂 But I fared better than Basil. lol. He barely interacted with the guide and preferred clicking pictures. July isn’t the best month to visit Indonesia. 😦

  3. You’ve uncovered so many incredible destinations I’ve never heard of ~ and now, Yogykarta is on my list. Your photos and writing of your adventures there are once again superb. Happy trails ahead 🙂

    • Thanks a bunch, Randall! Your comment made my day! 🙂 Yogyakarta should definitely be on your list. It’s great to explore Java’s cultural (UNESCO temples) and natural gems (mountains, rivers, and caves). I wish we could’ve stayed there for a couple of days and had planned the trip ourselves. 🙂 I would have liked exploring caves and the local cafes. Thanks for stopping by! 🙂

  4. Lovely to return to Yogyakarta through your lens. I loved everything about the place except for the oppressive heat. We did not have the pleasure of seeing a shadow puppet show when visiting there so very much enjoyed attending one here. And how did we manage to miss that gorgeous Water Palace? I hope that politics don’t get in the way of Princess serving as a Sultana/Governor.

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out /  Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out /  Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out /  Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out /  Change )

Connecting to %s

This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed.