After a dry run of 15 km, from Mapo to Mangwan Hangang River Park, and back, along the Han; I thought I was sufficiently prepped to take our cycling to the next level. Honestly, I don’t think, I truly understood what I was getting into, when I chalked out a plan, for a day long activity along the Han — on the following weekend.

Photo: Seoul Metropolitan Subway Map (Courtesy of SeoulMetro)
First Iteration: Oksu to Jamsil (The green line indicates the subway route.)

The Han River runs through Seoul city splitting it into two halves. The length of the cycling trail, along the river, is about 80 km (covering 40 km on each side). It’s probably the most popular activity to pursue in Seoul, other than hiking. The plan was to take the subway, bike in tow, to Oksu, and then, cycle along the length of the river to reach Jamsil Hangang Park (the venue of Shelley’s birthday celebration for her daughter, Naia), turn back and head over to Yeouido Hangang Park for the evening firework display. In hindsight, it does seem like an ambitious plan. One of the reasons, for opting for a bike over the subway, was to eliminate changing multiple trains to reach Jamsil. Also, reports said that the subway would be shut down for an hour after the firework festival. Turns out, things don’t always work according to plan.



Most subway stations will have a designated stairway for dragging your bike along the stairs. Elevators are reserved for pregnant women or the elderly. Bikes aren’t allowed on escalators either. We left our apartment at around 12 pm and struggled to figure how to transport the bikes to the track. In our confusion or frustration, we used the escalator. From there, taking the bike through a series of stairs (both up and down) to the Gyeongui–Jungang Line was quite the task. Finally, we made it to the platform and luckily, reached just outside the first compartment of the train (reserved for cycles).

Sometimes it isn’t necessary to speak the same language, to communicate with one another. And in Seoul as long as you can hike, walk or cycle — you will definitely fit in. As I struggled with my bike, in the compartment of a moving train, other cyclists arranged their bikes to make room for us, and one of them helped me align my bike and smiled at me.




Transporting the bikes eats into your energy. At Oksu, we had to drag our bikes along a long flight of stairs and fortunately, at the exit to the Han there is an elevator. With no instructions indicating otherwise; we took the easy route to the park below.

Finally, we reached the cycling track of Hangang park at Oksu. Judging by the graffiti and elderly women exercising on the outdoor equipment, I should have realised: I have yet to reach the fitness level of the average local in Seoul. By the time we hit the track, it was 1 pm, I was hungry, the sun was out, and I had to pedal away. It’s good to carry something to eat on such trips, as Hangang Parks with convenience stores and restrooms are spread far apart and the rest of the track is for pure cycling joy.



The wheels of my bike have a fantastic grip, unfortunately I have to also put more effort into cycling. Basil’s bike is lighter with bigger wheels and can cruise with minimum effort. I saw almost everyone, including kids on their bikes, whiz by me.





I tried hard not to let hunger or the sun get to me. We made our first stop for pictures at a crossing of a small bridge. It was tempting to just look around and do nothing.





We cycled further to another intersection, where a bridge above (the main road) forked in turns. Clicking photographs had never been my priority, maybe I always depended on Basil. With Basil loosing interest in photography, I tried clicking some shots of the banner above. The wind was so strong that my bike fell over. And that was the first thing to go wrong for the day.


Basil had gone ahead, and when I started to pedal, I realised my bike had lost its alignment. So, I had to walk along the track, hoping that Basil would eventually realise something is wrong, his wife’s not trailing behind. Honestly, I would never have been able to catch up with him anyway.

Eventually, he did realise, I wasn’t around, and he came back for me. He tried straightening the wheels, but I didn’t seem too confident with the bike afterwards. So, we continued walking, until I was too tired and had to cycle.





Fortunately, for me, the next Hangang Park was about 10 minutes away. After a meal of Gimbap and a burger, we spread our mat, and took a breather. It was nearing 2 pm and tired as I was, I knew we had to carry on. Jamsil wasn’t very far away.





At Jamsil, we had to cross the bridge to reach Jamsil Hangang Park — on the other side. I’ve never been good with heights and looking at the narrow railing and depth below, I preferred to cross the breadth of the river on foot, over the bridge. In the afternoon sun, that may not have been the right decision. What seemed like a never ending walk, with the bike in tow, finally ended after 20 minutes.


Down a giddying ramp and after clicking pictures of the water, we head towards the meeting spot. We had finally made it 2 hours later at 4 pm. After a round of games and pizza, we head over to Shelley’s place. And after a few more games and dinner; we canned the plan of seeing the fireworks. Eventually, we were so late, the subway was shut, and I didn’t have the energy to cycle back, so we crashed at Shelley and Agri’s place!



The Second Iteration: Jamsil Hangang Park to Yeouido Hangang Park (Subway route in brown)

The next day, we woke at 8 am, said bye to our wonderful hosts Shelley and Agri, and jumped on our bikes and started cycling back home. We could have taken the subway, but changing multiple times with bikes would have been crazy. The plan for the day, was to cycle to Yeouido Hangang Park and cross the bridge — to head home. At that time, it sounded perfect! After having boiled eggs and coffee, at the local store, we began the next part of our journey.



En route, we stopped for a quick bike repair. We bought a mirror, flash lights, and gloves at a good price. The rockstar ajumma at the stall would give any cyclist a complex. She fixed the mirror with ease and was super fit for her age. And with my broken Korean (monosyllabic actually) and toothy smile, she was floored. She volunteered to oil the chains of our bikes without asking. Clearly, the effort of understanding local culture never goes unrewarded. Ahead, we saw a rabbit trying to hide between the blades of grass.





After pedalling for 20 odd minutes, taking in the gorgeous scenery on a warm sunday morning, I had to take a break. We walked for a bit and clicked pictures along the way. The vegetation along the river is stunning and does a fantastic job of compensating the rows of grey — in the far distance.




We reached Banpo Hangang Park at around 12 pm. I was really tired by now. And we altered the course a bit and thought of crossing the bridge and taking the subway back home. After a meal of noodles, I was so tired, I felt queasy, and wasn’t strong enough to pedal. So, we spread our mat (too bad we hadn’t carried our tent) and tried to rest.

The Final Iteration: Jamsil Hangang Park to Banpo Bridge (Green line indicates bus route.)



Crossing Banpo Bridge, on the underpass, was quite a task, and I didn’t have the energy to pedal. So once again, we had to cross the breadth of the river. Upon reaching the other other side, we took the elevator leading to the road above. Another foreigner asked Basil if he was a foreigner as well, making me wonder, if only foreigners took the elevator to transport their bikes. Although, I did see another cyclist (local) using the elevator too.



We walked towards Seobinggo station on the Gyeongui-Jungang Line and never have I been happier to see the familiar sight of tracks leading home. We reached our apartment at 5 pm, ending what I would call a really long ride.



Posted by:twobrownfeet

Writer-Photographer Duo. Now in Seoul.

32 replies on “2 days Along the Han

  1. ‘Really long’ is an understatement Cheryl. Your bike ride sounds epic with lots of thrills and (ouch) spills along the way. What an amazing way to see the Han and all it has to offer. I love cycling at the best of times and felt as though I was right there beside you. Great post Cheryl. 😊

    1. Haha! I ended with a couple of bruises on my leg, a sore ankle, and a painful right knee. Basil fell sick with a mysterious (probably exertion) fever the next week. But, it was fun! Cycling is good fun. It’s fantastic to see all those sights pass by. Your comment always make my day! Thanks so much, Miriam! 🙂

      1. Always my pleasure. I love reading all about your epic adventures, whether on foot or bike. Makes me feel fitter than I am! 😊

      2. Ooh! Seriously, I’m not as fit as you. 🙂 I want to get there! I need a knee guard to hike or walk for long distances. 😦
        I never enjoy reading my own writing, I only see flaws in thought process, typos (hate them), or grammatical mistakes. I’m truly dependant on the reader (like yourself) for feedback. 🙂

      3. I think we’re our own worse critic aren’t we? But trust me when I say that your writing always puts me in the picture. And that’s a special gift. xo

      4. Truly appreciate it, Miriam! I had a similar conversation with another blogger/writer, two actually. And, I realised I’m not the only one. This blog itself is nerve-racking at times. But, I’ve also realised, it’s a fantastic tool to keep writing and see what works.
        You’ve always been a positive influence, Miriam. Thank you for your support! xo

      5. It is a fantastic tool, you’re right Cheryl. And I feel the same about you, you’re always been positive and encouraging and I really appreciate that. 😊

  2. I know it was exhausting for you (and occasionally traumatizing on the bridges!), but it sounds so fun – a little adventure right there in your own city! I always think having a destination is the key to a long walk or bike ride, and how fun that yours was Naia’s party.

    1. The bridge was scary for me. I’m terrified of heights. I’m trying hard to work on that fear and my fitness. 🙂 It was a good trip and definitely an adventure. I agree! And we had so much fun at Shelley and Agri’s party. Shelley has adopted me into her family! haha! Naia is an angel and so adorable. Her parents have done a wonderful job! 🙂

  3. Wow super impressive trip. It all looks so modern. How amaxing to have a city prioritize a bike path like this. Amazing. Great role models for other countries.
    Fascinating post.

    1. I’m fascinated by Seoul city. We’ve recently moved here and there’s so much to explore — once you’re done with the tourist spots. Mountains, walkways, and cycling paths. And all this change is happening in a period of few months. Collectively, over a year, it’s fantastic. Fitness and appreciating nature is a priority here. 🙂 We’re trying to be a part of the local crowd. We haven’t reached where we want to be. 🙂 Thanks for stopping by Peta.

  4. Lol…I finally read the story of your epic ride home. 🙂 You guys are ambitious. We haven’t attempted anything even close to what you guys did in all our years here. It’s always just to Banpo and back, and it’s def enough for us. (I am glad though that Basil realized his wife wasn’t behind him at some point…eventually). :p

    1. Haha! Imagine if I had tried writing about Basil’s cycling experience where he gets lost and ends up in a place so far from where he started. Banpo and back is a good ride. Amazing views of the river and city. I think, the main challenge is transporting the bikes. It’s so tiring and on the other side of the river there are many small diversions and it’s easy to get lost. 😦 I’m so glad he realised I wasn’t there and came back. haha!

  5. You are turning into quite the athlete with your hiking and now cycling! Well done! Believe me – I realize it isn’t that easy to go the longer distances. Treat yourself to some massage or a nice soak in hot water.

    1. Haha! Debbie, I’m not as athletic as I hope to be. Basil is pushing me towards our goal of reaching a desired fitness level. I’m cycling after a gap of more than 15 years! And this was my third time with the bike post that break. We haven’t travelled anywhere (in Korea or elsewhere), so we try to make the most of the city (Seoul) we’ve shifted to. We’re glad we’ve got so many options! 🙂

    1. Haha! Thanks, Jane. I never thought I’d be able to drag my bike up either. Once you roll the wheels along the track, it isn’t too hard. 🙂 We haven’t cycled since. Basil fell sick the next weekend. And, these days temperatures have dipped below 0. 🙂

      1. Biking is though… you need to be in really good shape. I don’t have my bike with me here in the uk and it’s not really cyclist friendly. With all the car I think it’s quite dangerous

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