Seoul breathes at a frightening pace. It’s not difficult to lose yourself or your breath, here. Towering slabs of mortar and glass, dominate a jagged skyline, often competing — for a spot of grey. Following a Darwinian model of survival, primitive structures are quick to be razed, to be equally quickly replaced, by monsters of steel. It would be hard, to imagine, what this bustling city might have looked like — ten years ago. Unless, you take a walk along the narrow alleys — hidden in plain sight. Fortunately, for the likes of me, there’s some soul still left to be found.



A walk through, the dimly lit alleys of Gwangjang Market, can turn back the hands of the clock. Local markets have the ability of arresting time and freezing it in a bottled alleyway. Far away from the whir of sparkling black sedans, crisp tailored business suits, and gigantic shopping marts; it almost feels like home here. The pace is busy, but, far from — breathing down your neck. It’s business as usual for most merchants and vendors. One of the bitter truths of life: everyone, doesn’t get to stroll through a market for fun.



Unlike most Asian street markets, vendors don’t always scream for your attention. Looking at the wide variety of wares and unusual fish (complete with the frozen look of death) on display, I guess, their work’s half done. Although, we didn’t stop to ask; I have a feeling, that prices, like time, are reflective of  another epoch.



The air is ripe with dozen odd aromas. Most of them are unfamiliar, but definitely inviting, for anyone who’s famished — after a long hike along the Fortress Wall in Bugaksan. And, it’s surprising, how fast those tired legs will move, when it comes to food. Most of the words made little sense and having YJ, with us, helped. At lunchtime, every stall was teeming with hungry travellers, and it took some effort to find us a table to squeeze in.


Turns out, Tim Burton ate at the same food stall. The throes of marketing do not escape small businesses either.



These narrow alleys are deceptive. There’s lots more to see, touch, eat, or smell. Stacks of shoes, cotton clothes, traditional stationary, and freshly baked sweets scream for your attention.  At the exit, a group of young girls feasted on skewered meats and Gimbap. Gimbap (or kimbap) is not a desert. It’s more of a quick snack — perfect for the outdoors. A stuffing of rice and veggies, rolled in seaweed sheet, and sliced into thin slices; once tasted, Gimbap can get addictive. And it’s also an excellent way to leave behind a quaint world, with a lingering taste of the sea, before heading back to the wide streets and their towering companions.

Posted by:twobrownfeet

Writer-Photographer Duo. Now in Seoul.

48 replies on “Back-Alleys of Gwangjang Market

  1. This looks like such a lovely walk through Gwangjang Market in Seoul. Basil did great with his shots. Along with no shouting among patrons and vendors, it doesn’t look like people were shoving each other either. Or maybe you just went on a quiet day 😀 The Gimbap reminds me of sushi – seaweed wrapped around rice and from the sounds of it, it comes across as a healthy, light snack. Hope you didn’t have one too many. I can imagine Basil eating more than you after all hid efforts taking photos 😀

    1. Haha! We were stuffed from eating pajeon (Korean pancake), so we didn’t have too much Gimbap. Basil didn’t really put his heart to this market. He was tired from the hike. Glad you liked the photos nonetheless! 🙂 I didn’t include this piece of information (didn’t want the post to get too lengthy). Gimbap is inspired by a sushi variant. And it is a healthy (filling) rice snack. I think you’d like reading the link below. 🙂 Have a good weekend!

      1. Goes to show how Basil is a good photographer no matter how he is feeling 🙂 Thanks for the link. So it is similar and a variant to sushi. I’ll try it some day 🙂

  2. What a wonderful walk and an evocative post. I love wandering back streets and markets. You described the sights and smells so well I felt like I was walking it with you.

    1. I’ve been using these posts as a writing prompt. And I’m glad it’s working! It’s not been easy to continue writing. Thanks a bunch! I love quaint alleys and markets. So much to soak in. 🙂

    1. I could hug you! Haha! I’ve wanted to (and have many times) quit writing. I’ve quit too many things! 🙂 Comments, like yours, tell me that there is some hope. I must keep at it. Have a great weekend! 🙂

    1. Couldn’t agree more! And I remember a few lines from your intro. You did mention that you love it. 🙂 Basil will be happy with your comment. He’s the one clicking those photos! Thanks so much.

  3. Makes me want to see the place though I know it’s impossible at the moment. lol. Interesting place. Your photos bring out the feel. 🙂

    1. I can, Shelley! We haven’t visited Taj Mahal or any of the UNESCO caves! Haha! I totally get it. You’ve got 50 (and counting) countries on your list! That’s what matters.

  4. What a great assortment of fresh ingredients from this market! You must have had a great time there! Very well written to the point where I could almost smell the ingredients! Read this post twice so that I could keep taking the aroma into my nostrils!

  5. looks awesome!! love the photo with all the bags of spices, wow, what a diversity…is it easy to take pictures at the markets there? are vendors ok with photographers? 🙂

    1. Thanks, Alex! I don’t think it’s easy taking photos of vendors – if they’re looking at you. Basil would have to ask them. Or, we’d possibly get a dirty look. 🙂 I don’t know. He photographed stalls where the vendor was inside or too busy to notice. Besides, its a tourist place. One of the oldest markets in Seoul. I think, they are used to getting photographed. Should help drive their business. As long its not offensive or in your face, they would be fine, I guess. And that’s my predicament with photography, in a bid to capture a moment are we trying to objectify people? I should stick to writing. 🙂

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in: Logo

You are commenting using your account. Log Out /  Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out /  Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out /  Change )

Connecting to %s

This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed.